1. I wanted to learn more about Scotland and its different cultures (as we all know, most countries/nations have different cities and parts to them. One city in the same country can be widely different from another)
2. To eat a proper dish of haggis. I didn't want to get a frozen one in some random supermarket chain, but at an eatery where they serve it to you hot with side dishes.
After strolling around Glasgow's city centre, I took a short (approx. 1 hour) train ride to Edinburgh where I settle into a hostel called Haggis Hostels. The location is great - only a couple minutes' walk from Waverley train station and in the heart of Edinburgh (just across from Princes Street Gardens). The hostel is clean (especially the bathroom and kitchen) and there are very few guests, making it a quiet and comfortable accommodation. However, it's near the top of a building and can only be accessed by a long climb up a set of spiral stairs that span over three stories high (no lifts/elevators I'm afraid!). Other cons: the rooms are tiny (in the 4-person dorm I was in, it was very hard for us to manage and squeeze through the bunk beds, they were practically squished together) and there is a charge for almost everything (even for bag storage it cost me at least 2 pounds when all the other hostels I've been to it's free).
Before closing time (usually 5pm, a very important thing to keep in mind when you're traveling), I head out to explore, walking up the popular Princes Street, and check out the paintings at the Scottish National Gallery until it closes. It houses a fine European collection from world-famous painters, ranging from Monet to Rembrandt to Turner. What stays with me most is their seemingly unending Italian (religious subject, of course) and Dutch collections. The gallery is worth a visit if you're into gazing at classical European paintings.
When evening rolls around and I look for dinner, I finally achieve one of my two objectives: haggis. I had seen it refrigerated in souvenir shops that day and thought about buying one to bring back to Manchester (share it with a friend or something). I'm glad I didn't. I find a pub on the other side of town from the hostel, closer to the Royal Mile, called The World's End, and I order two small dishes: one haggis (of course) with neeps and tatties (aka turnips and potatoes - you gotta love Scottish slang!) and one cullen skink (a traditional Scottish creamy fish chowder with potatoes and onions). The cullen skink ends up being delicious and full of flavour, so when the haggis arrives I'm already full. But I've come so far. I can't not eat it. I take one bite and I know immediately. I do not like haggis. This dish I've been gearing myself up to try for ages ends up being a great disappointment. The truth is, it tastes exactly as it sounds. Mushed up organs. Everyone already knew that it tasted gross (Organs cooked in a sheep's stomach? Eeeeww, that's nasty!) but I wanted to be adventurous. Before I even tried it, I had actually convinced myself that it would taste good, delicious even. What was I thinking?
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| Outside of its stomach casing, it doesn't look too bad, right? |
To be honest, I think what made it unbearable was its texture more than its bland taste. The chewy (I'm convinced also raw) oats was what destroyed it for me, I think. But I can't just pick them out, can I? Apart from the fact that it's too much work, it just wouldn't be a haggis anymore, would it?
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| The more appetizing of the two dishes I ordered. |
Despite my disappointment, I was still quite happy that I'd achieved this objective and put an end to the long search for haggis. I'd much rather try things than spend the rest of my life wondering what they're like.
In the morning I climb up the Gothic spire that is the Walter Scott Monument (built in the first half of the 19th century in dedication of the celebrated writer and national figure). Its stone is carved with intricate design and miniature knights. There is a room on the way up that displays the writer's history through informative billboards and excerpts of his texts. When you reach the very top, you're treated to a gorgeous panoramic view of the city of Edinburgh. You can see so much, and all of it looks so small.
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| Edinburgh looks a little something like this |
The Walter Scott Monument is a hard sight to avoid - it catches everyone's eye, its structure prominently sticking out to the sky in a sea of green in Princes Street Gardens, and when I first saw it, I knew I had to climb it.
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| Can anyone guess which of these buildings is the Walter Scott Monument? |
Following this I spent a good 3 to 4 hours touring around Edinburgh Castle. It's pretty huge and it's hugely popular. You will no doubt encounter many other tourists roaming around the place. If you're one of those people who can look at something really quickly and are okay with never having to see it again, then you can probably do the Castle in an hour. But if you're like me and you need to scrutinize everything, save the afternoon for it. There are many different sections to the castle (i.e. the chapel, the war museum, the crown jewels, etc.), all of which you can find with the guide of a map (given to you when you purchase your ticket). As far as castles go, of the ones I've visited so far, this is by far the biggest, the most popular, and the most educational. Just before 1pm (everyday but Sunday), everyone stands still as they wait for the firing of the cannon. The entire castle and its grounds are silent and full of anticipation. I managed to get to the Castle in time to witness what is called the One O'Clock Gun (thanks to the employee who served me tea at Haggis Hostels). The anticipation seems to last forever, but the actual cannon firing is a short, abrupt moment, and is followed by a lingering smell of smoke in the air.
True story: Has anyone watched the latest Game of Thrones Episode (ep 9)? Apparently George R. R. Martin took his inspiration for the shocking Red Wedding scene from a historical massacre that occurred in this very castle, known as the Black Dinner. The idea is similar - the host (in this case, the King of Scotland) kills his guests (the Douglas clan) by the end of the feast. What a horrific thing. You can learn all about it on your visit here...or by doing a quick Google search.
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| Edinburgh Castle - I have no doubt that history buffs dig this place. |
When I've finally had enough of Edinburgh Castle (don't get me wrong, a great place, but being my scrutinizing-self, a place so big and informative as this, it's too much for my head to take in), I walk down the Royal Mile (a famous must-see area in the heart of the Old Town in Edinburgh). One particular feature of this area is what's known as a "close" (though some are called "court" or "wynd"): a narrow alleyway, many of which riddle the cobbled streets in Old Town.
This architectural facet gives Edinburgh that old, historical edge, along with a spooky feel. Many have a gate (they used to be closed off to the public, hence the name) and I wander through a few of them to get a better sense of the city and its history (and it's just fun). Also, they all have a name. I walked through the well-known Lady Stair's Close to reach the Writers' Museum.
If you're into literature like me, this is a great place to be. There are exhibitions centered around three famed Scottish writers: Robert Burns, Walter Scott, and Robert Louis Stevenson (unfortunately I missed out on this last one, which was in the basement...hence my important note about keeping track of closing time, folks!). In addition, there's a nice sitting area upstairs, which has ads about writing competitions and other literature-themed events, and on the main floor there's a neat shop (I bought a few bookmarks that were on sale - they had designs of famous paintings and folded out!) full of interesting books and book paraphernalia.
After some more strolling about, I went back to the hostel to grab my bag and caught my evening train, arriving in Manchester in time to meet an old friend from back home and be her host.
Missed Highlights (in Edinburgh): Greyfriars Kirkyard (a supposedly haunted famous cemetery), Holyrood Palace, St Giles' Cathedral, the National Museum of Scotland, the Royal Botanic Garden, the Scottish Parliament, Arthur's Seat (I badly wanted to climb this extinct volcano but I didn't have time), the Central Library, and when it comes to festivals, of course the Edinburgh International Book Festival (probably the biggest literary festival in the world).
Heck, just listing all of these makes me want to live here.
And thus concludes my adventures in Scotland. I've trekked through the breath-taking natural landscapes, stayed in a thriving industrial city of the working class, and meandered through the old passageways of a city rich with history. Though I have now seen the different sides of Scotland, I know there is still a lot more to learn about this beautiful country.
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